Before we start, here is a brief intro you’ll find at the start of all of my blogs!
This is a story-style travel blog featuring my adventure through Southeast Asia in the fall of 2024. I spent 1 week on my own in Laos, then joined a 14 day tour called Ultimate Cambodian Adventure from the company G Adventures, and a final 3 day solo stop in Singapore. You can read the blog in order, or about whichever destination intrigues you! Within my stories, I’ll offer some recommendations and some tips and tricks for a smooth journey. When I travel, I mostly do group tours and the reasons are:
* As a solo woman traveler, it is much safer especially if traveling long distances or to countries that can be dangerous in some areas
*The itineraries are amazing and usually include all of the things you’d want to see and do…and if not, there is free time to do as you wish
*You don’t have to worry about booking transport, finding hotels, etc. Sometimes that can contribute to the adventure, but it’s also nice to sit back and relax and let your Tour CEO be in charge
* And finally…the new people you meet on your tour become your family, and I’ve made lifelong friends in these journeys. For myself, this has equal importance with exploring new countries.
Laos is a serene and captivating landlocked country in Southeast Asia, bordered by China, Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Myanmar.
It is considered to be a relatively poor country, but it’s seen some growth recently due to tourism, mining and hydroelectric power export. There are 7 million people in this small country, with a diverse mix of ethnic groups. Here you can experience lot of its of natural beauty, like the lush jungles, flowing rivers, misty mountains, waterfalls and so many golden temples that glisten in the sun and welcome visitors to their warmth and tradition. In the mid 1800’s, The French arrived here and you can see some of this influence in the architecture and some older citizens still speak French. During the Vietnam War, Laos was heavily bombed due to parts of the country being occupied by the Vietnamese. Laos holds the distinction of being the most heavily bombed country in the world, and they are still working to safely remove any unexploded ordnances, which I will talk more about in future blogs. Laos is a socialist state, and openly endorses communism.
At the hotel in Vientiane, my driver is waiting to take me to the train station.
It is around a 30-minute drive from Vientiane; I had considered taking a tuk tuk there but I decide that a splurge for a comfy car ride is much more appealing. The guys at the hotel help me book all of my transport and my train tickets.
The train station is spacious and clean, and when it’s time to board it’s very smooth and organized. I am a bit confused as to what car I’m in and what seat, but the rail station dude shows me the way. Thank goodness there is only one platform and track. Haha. I settle in for a speedy (this train travels at 161km/hour) two-hour ride to Luang Prabang.
It’s a bit chaotic upon arrival, with a ton of people trying to fit through a small exit area. I have no clue where I’m going, so I just follow everyone else down to an area where all the vans are parked. I have to buy a ticket from one of the guys sitting at a table under a tent in the parking lot, then get into a van that will take me to the hotel. At least I hope so. Haha. The van is jampacked, and the aircon is not very strong. Luckily, I had decided to leave my giant suitcase back in Vientiane, so I only have a small backpack and duffel bag. I arrive at Luang Prabang Central Hotel.
It’s really nice, and I love this room!
I relax for a bit and unpack, and then I head out to find a place for dinner. I’m about a 15-minute walk away from the main tourist area. The first stop is the street food market, and I’m still iffy about what is safe to eat, so I chicken out again.
I wander through the night market, and wow there is so much cool stuff that I’ll have to buy.
I can’t resist so I pick up a couple of Saa paper lanterns and a pack of bamboo straws.
Oh, and this weird looking doll called Khun Boron. It’s from an ancient legend about two servants who saved the city from a giant vine that covered the sun, sacrificing their lives in the process. Alright, sure!
I choose to eat at a place called Yuni Yupoun. It’s located on the main street, Sisavangvong Road.
I sit outside, in front of a large fan. I order the noodle stir fry, and for dessert – my fave – mango sticky rice.
The restaurant is trendy with travelers, and the food and service is awesome. I take my time here, enjoying a cold pop and writing in my journal. After this I head back to the hotel as I prepare for a VERY early morning….
Luang Prabang is located in the Northern mountains of Laos; it’s a UNESCO World Heritage city that is rich with ancient tradition and natural beauty. It is known for its well preserved architectural, religious and cultural heritage.
Luang Prabang is where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers meet, and is abundant in Buddhist temples and monasteries.
I begin my morning at 430am, so I can get to Sisavangvong Road to witness the Alms Giving Ceremony. This happens at sunrise, so it will vary depending on the time of year. This ceremony dates back to the 14th century!! The monks form long lines and walk silently through the streets of the town, collecting offerings of food from locals and tourists. As I’m walking to the main area, there are women selling all kinds of food items to give to the monks. I decide that I will not directly participate in the ceremony, but just watch from the sidelines. This ritual reflects the relationships between the monks and their community – they get sustenance, and the act of giving allows participants to gain spiritual merit.
There are chairs set up along the main road, and I find one in front of the monastery. The monks walk barefoot past the rows of chairs, and people place the food offerings in their bowls.
It’s important to remain respectful during this ceremony – dress modestly, refrain from talking, keep your head lower than the monks and no eye contact. The monks range in age from children to senior men. At one point the young ones stop and form a line and do a chant.
The whole experience is very special, and it’s worth getting your ass out of bed to see it!
Since I’m already out and about, it’s the perfect time to catch the morning market(I would never wake up this early just for a market). Haha. I walk past vendors selling all kinds of fruits and veggies, laid out on the street on mats.
I venture further in where the stalls are located; more produce, fresh meats, nuts and yummy treats that I’m still too chicken to try.
Instead, I head back to the hotel for the included breakfast buffet and the best part is the fresh sweet mango, my favorite fruit. I cozy back into bed for the rest of the morning, and will do some exploring in the afternoon.
Technically, it’s not the best idea to start the day off in the blazing afternoon heat. I take it slow- drinking lots of water, finding shade, using my sun umbrella – I’m discovering the umbrella is way better than wearing a hat. Today I am exploring the many wats here in Luang Prabang…first stop is Wat Wisunarat, which is conveniently located just steps from the hotel.
It is the oldest Buddhist temple in the city, and also in this complex is the impressive That Pathoum, a giant stupa.
I head back to the main road and visit the monastery I was in front of earlier this morning, called Wat Mai.
It is one of the largest in the city; it was a temple for the royal family and is the residence of the highest Laotian Buddhist dignitary. I don’t see him today, but the guys selling the entry tickets are really nice so we chat for a bit while I take a break from the scorching sun. The details on the doors and outer walls are just stunning. And the Buddha inside is also pretty cool.
I walk a bit farther down the street to Wat Sensoukharam. I can’t go inside the temple but the outside is surrounded by a few golden chedi, and it has very beautiful intricate doors.
The complex has some interesting features, like this boat, which was used in the Indochina war in Luang Prabang from 1960 to 1973.
There is also the Chapel of the Standing Buddha.
What’s great about Luang Prabang is that you can just wander aimlessly for hours and explore the many temples, admire the architecture and take in the vibe that flows through the streets.
I’m getting hungry so I search out one of the restaurants on my list called Tamarind. It’s just a block off that main road, across from the river.
There isn’t a lot on the menu that is appealing to me at the moment, but I decide on the bamboo shoot soup which is soo tasty and not weird at all to eat on a hot Laos day. Haha.
I drink a refreshing tamarind cooler to offset the heat, and slather my skin with ice cubes. You do what you gotta do! After lunch I take a walk around to the end of the peninsula of Luang Prabang for some Mekong River views.
I attempt to look for Wat Xienthong; it’s kind of confusing trying to find the entrance and I’m not feeling great and definitely not in the mood for this. I settle for a pic through one of the no entry gates, and decide I will come back later if I have time.
There’s no way I’m in any state to walk back to the hotel, so I hire a tuk tuk. I have a rest at the hotel for a few hours before heading out to the Garavek Storytelling show. It’s in a tiny theater, and it’s just two guys in the show. One tells the stories of the many legends, folktales and myths of Luang Prabang, and the other plays an instrument called the khene – a handmade bamboo mouth organ.
The show is only an hour but it feels way longer since it’s just one guy telling these stories. Overall, it’s a cool way to spend some time and to learn more about the folk culture of Laos. By this time, I’m absolutely starving so I end up at Popolo Cantina, an Italian restaurant. And I eat the yummiest pizza. I’m not sure what it is about the pizza here in Laos but wow….and the woodfired ovens make all the difference.
I’m also not sure why there is so much pizza served in Laos…is it because they really like pizza, or they think foreigners want to eat it? Either way, I’m grateful. On my way back to the hotel, I walk though the night market again and pick up a few more things. Like a pair of elephant slippers, which are comfy but have zero grip on the bottom so they are too slippery to wear on non carpeted floors. Haha. Some more cool souvenirs to pick up are paper umbrellas, and all kinds of rice whiskey. Especially the one with the snake inside.
As much as I’d love to find place to go for drinks or even karaoke, I’m just way too tired and lazy from the awesome day I just had so it’s another relaxing night at the hotel to prepare for another awesome day tomorrow!!!
Everywhere On Earth With Erin 