This is a story-style travel blog featuring my adventure through Central America in the fall of 2023. I did a 17-day tour called Central American Journey, from the company Intrepid. We visited Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Costa Rica. You can read the blog in order, or about whichever destination intrigues you! Within my stories, I’ll offer some recommendations and some tips and tricks for a smooth journey. When I travel, I mostly do group tours and the reasons are:
* As a solo woman traveler, it is much safer especially if traveling long distances or to countries that can be dangerous in some parts
*The itineraries are amazing and usually include all of the things you’d want to see and do…and if not, there is free time to do as you wish;
*You don’t have to worry about booking transport, finding hotels, etc. Sometimes that can contribute to the adventure, but it’s also nice to sit back and relax and let your tour leader be in charge
* And finally…the new people you meet on your tour become your family, and I’ve made lifelong friends in these journeys. For myself, this has equal importance with exploring new countries.
Nicaragua is the largest country in Central America. Since it gained independence from Spain in the 1800’s the country has had many periods of political unrest, fiscal crisis, dictatorship and occupation. Nicaragua has a diverse culture from the multiethnic population, which shows in its cuisine, folklore, music and literature. It’s known as the land of lakes and volcanoes, from tropical rainforests to active volcanoes.
Granada is located on the shores of Lake Nicaragua, and was once the capital of the country before it was officially moved to Managua. While Leon saw a lot of political unrest due to the Sandinista movement, Granada avoided much of that conflict. It is still considered economically and politicaly important.
We arrive into Granada in the early evening and check into Hotel La Estacion; the rooms are decent and there is an amazing garden and pool in the back.
https://hotelestaciongranada.com
The location of this hotel is a bit farther from the centre of town than I prefer, but it doesn’t take too long to get there. Marvin has arranged laundry service for those in need, and the guy picking up the clothes has a pickup truck. He offers to drop us off in the center of town, so we all pile into the back of the cargo bed and hold on for dear life. Probably not the safest option, but we live dangerously tonight!
We won’t really have time to explore the city in the daytime, and this is disappointing. I would love to spend a few hours taking in the sights and atmosphere (after 2023, this tour includes extra time in Granada – Yay!). The architecture here is Spanish colonial style and the buildings are brightly painted in both vibrant and pastel hues.
The cobblestone streets are narrow; most only able to fit one car or a horse and carriage.
We stop at the church in the main square – Cathedral de Granada. It is stunning!
As we are taking pics, we are surrounded by a few people begging for money – this is the first time we’ve encountered this in Central America. We continue on to have dinner at one of the most famous restaurants in Granada – Garden Café.
They use a lot of locally grown food, and observe many practices that give back to the community. The menu is mostly healthy options and some nica cuisine. I go for the chicken and quinoa pilaf, and a frozen mint lemonade.
After dinner, we decide to walk back to the hotel and have another early night.
Today, it’s a full day of exploring some cool areas around Granada! I really wish we could have included a city tour amongst the other activities though! Our first stop this morning is breakfast at Cafe de las Sonrisas, which translates to Smiles Coffee.
This café provides employment for people who are hearing impaired. There are sign language posters all over the walls and the tables and we are encouraged to try to order our food using signs. I order the fruit, yogurt and granola bowl.
After our meal, we head over to the learning area where we are taught more signs and how to say our names.
We also learn that instead of signing each letter of someone’s name, they will make up nicknames based on appearance or personality traits, which is really clever and so much easier! They also house a workshop area where they make hammocks, and one of the guys lets me try the weaving of the hammock. I’m not really that good at it. Haha.
We have some time to check out the Iglesia la Merced; like a lot of churches here, it had been built, destroyed, and rebuilt but it still looks old and rustic from the outside.
Inside, it looks brand new!
The main reason to visit this church is to climb the bell tower. The spiral stairwell is steep and claustrophobically narrow, but the views up here are worth the climb. The bells are very accessible and there are signs everywhere saying DO NOT RING THE BELLS.
Man, this is tempting and I’m secretly wishing someone from my group will break the rules so I don’t have to. But we all behave.
It’s now time to join our afternoon tour of some cool spots around Granada, and the first stop is a boat cruise among the Islets of Lake Nicaragua.
They were formed when the Mombacho Volcano erupted and threw huge rocks into the lake. These islets are home to a wide variety of wildlife, and there is a community of people living here – mostly fishermen.
Our guide takes us past many luxury houses for rent, as well as hotels.
It’s a really beautiful and serene area. We see a lot of birds….
Our guide grabs one of these flowers…I can’t remember what it is but it’s pretty and provides a good photo op.
And then we drive past the one small island known for the capuchin monkeys.
The tree branches hang out over the water, and we get as close as we can so these curious ones come over to check us out. Apparently, they were brought out here by the guy that owns this island; he wanted to build a home but it was too small and unsuitable so…revenge monkeys. Since they are stuck on this island, I would imagine they are properly fed by the locals.
Now we’re back on land and off to Taller Escuela de Ceramica, an art school where they make all kinds of ceramics.
They give us a short demonstration and then we can have a look around and purchase some of their artwork.
I pick up a few small cups and this bird…it’s like a little whistle…how could I resist?
Next stop is Catarina, and the purpose of the visit here is the amazing viewpoint of the crater of Apoyo lagoon.
Atop this high hill, you can even see Granada and Lake Nicaragua in the distance. This lagoon formed in the crater of an extinct volcano. When the water level reaches its max, the volcanic gases can still expel, resulting in areas of the lagoon generating natural thermal springs. Leaving Catarina, we drive down to the shores of the lagoon to Punta el Cacique for our lunch/swim stop.
I have the chicken plate with salad and fries…pretty basic.
There are a few dogs hanging around for handouts, and lots of bugs which is kind of annoying while eating. Bill spots some bats hanging from the roof!
After lunch, we have a couple hours to relax, enjoy a cocktail, and have a swim. I decide not to swim today, and just enjoy my cocktail and watch everyone else play in the water.
Marvin and James have fun diving off the platform, Ivonne enjoys the water swing, and Paige tries the other swing.
When we’re done here, we make a very short stop at one of the large souvenir markets. This is just not enough time for me to find all the cool stuff I’d like to bring home, but that’s how it goes sometimes. Dammit! But I do score some Primivista Art, which is what I was looking for.
PRO TIP: some neat things to pick up here in Nicaragua are: Flor de Cana rum, hammocks, coffee, and local ceramics.
The final stop is the Masaya Volcano, and it’s an active one. Ok, so technically we visit the caldera – a cauldron-like hollow that forms after the emptying of a magma chamber in an eruption. There is a short hike up for some sunset views but I’ve learned my lesson earlier this trip and I will just stay and gaze at the caldera.
It looks pretty cool and there’s tons of smoke coming out of it. But what’s even cooler…as it gets dark, you can really see the hot hot glowing lava in the deepest part of the crater.
After this exciting day, we’re all hungry for dinner and Marvin gets a recommendation from the laundry guy from yestetday. It’s called Asarte, and it is reminiscent of a large backyard party – it has a fun vibe.
I order the norteno sabroso, which is a plate of grilled meat, tortillas, avocado, beans, salsa. And what meal isn’t complete without a Victoria Classic beer….
PRO TIP: in addition to this, there are many cool traditional dishes for you to try in Nicaragua. Nacatamales (the Nica version of a tamale), Gallo Pinto (fried rice with beans, herbs and veggies), tajadas (fried plantain), Carne Asada (beef strips cooked on the grill), Indio Viejo(hearty cornmeal stew) . Some drinks that are not to miss are Flor de Cana rum, beer (Tona or Victoria), and Pinolillo (sweet cornmeal and cacao).
After such a long day, we are bagged so it’s another early night for us party animals!
Everywhere On Earth With Erin 